Category Archives: Lisa

Season End

May 2017

Season End, Haul Out Time

Our first cruising season has come to an end. The last bit of business was to get Footloose settled for her summer home, hauled out of the water in Guaymas. Guaymas is the only yard with a travel lift large enough to handle our beam. We first visited San Carlos, another popular place for people to haul out or leave boats for the hurricane season and then moved on to Guaymas for the final work and haul.

San Carlos

Entering San Carlos

Entering San Carlos

We arrived San Carlos Marina on May 8. The only available slip for us was a bit dicey. We anchored out first, then dinghied in to get a closer look before committing. The space was very tight (29 feet wide) for our beam (25 feet) Plus, one side of the space was not a “dock” but rather a cement wall. We decided to go for it since we wanted a break from windy anchorages. Our friend Joanneke from Witte Raaf kindly offered to come along and help with our landing. She was able to fend off on the starboard side (next to the cement wall), while I took care of getting the lines tied off on the port side. Michael backed her in while the wind did its best to push us toward the wall. Sailing or docking, the wind direction has generally not been our friend this season. Still, no harm done, only a bit of an adrenaline rush. We settled in for a week and began prepping the boat for haul out and dry storage. We made our list of things to do and began chipping away. I cleared the pantry and donated some food to local orphanages. We checked off the list slowly. We both felt lethargic, a bit melancholy. Not sure if it was the work at hand, the heat, or the realization that we would soon be leaving Footloose, our home, for the summer.

Oops

We planned to leave early on May 15 for Guaymas, hoping to shove off before the wind picked up. We got up early, but had to wait until 0900 to checkout. By this time, the wind was up and had too much west, which was eager to push us directly into “the wall”. Michael recruited several to help with lines to hold us off the wall until he could pull away. It all worked well as he pulled out of the slip and turned down the channel. As soon as the stern cleared the dock, the men threw the lines, which I scrambled to retrieve from the water, first from the stern and then from mid-ships. As the boat was being swept to port, Michael was doing all he could to keep Footloose in the center of the narrow channel. I heard Jan yell to me – get the mid ship lines – and I ran from the stern step to pull them in. Too late – the prop was fouled on the line and Michael had lost steerage. Luckily there was an empty side tie dock and the wind pushed us on. The guys helped tie us off. I sat down and cried. Michael quickly put on his wet suit and dive gear and dove to look at the prop. He cut away the mess of lines, then tested the engines. All clear – we were off to Guaymas. We always debrief after things go well or awry. What could we have done better?  In hindsight – 1) we could have anchored out and avoided the risk of the questionable dock space. 2) I could have brought up mid-ships line(s) first; or if docked and using line handlers, we could limit the number of lines, with four being too many for one person to bring in efficiently. 3) we could have brought Jan aboard to help with line retrieval. 4) Michael thought he could have built more speed allowing the rudders to work and steer the boat. Always learning.

3/4 three strand in a propellor

3/4 three strand in a propellor

Guaymas

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First, we docked at Marina Fonatour. Again, we took the only space we could fit. The wind helped us this time, with Michael bringing Footloose into position and letting her drift to the dock. Others welcomed us and quickly tied us down.  Countdown time — one week to get ready for the haul out. We did manage some breaks from the work detail to walk and eat in Guaymas. We were blessed to find our taxi driver, Jesús, who became our personal driver for the week. Whenever we called, he was there! He recommended Mariscos El Rey, which we enjoyed twice, with delicious seafood cocktails and grilled Pulpo. He drove us around to every Ferreteria in town looking for a fuel filter for the Gen Set. Jesús is married, has five dogs, two cats, and five niños all grown up. I adore him. His air-conditioned rides and our fun, albeit language-challenged conversations, were a pleasant diversion from the work and haul out dread.

I won’t detail all the boat prep here, but, oh my, it was more work than anticipated. We thoroughly cleaned the inside, polishing all wood trim, scrubbing floors, walls to headliners, cleaned the leather settee cushions, emptied all cabinets to clean some more. No mold will live here!  Michael took down all lines and we wrangled in the sails. The main sail was the toughest. We tried to plan it for a windless moment, but when is that really? We got it down late afternoon and began to fold it (950 square feet, 250 pounds), with Michael at the tack and me at the clew. The wind puffed and a section of the sail billowed up over the side. AAAH, NOOOOO. Michael flopped on top of the wad and pulled it back down. Disaster averted. We began again, trying to keep the folds as tight as possible in order to fit sail into the bag for storage.  Success. tick tock, tick tock. Watermakers pickled, check. Oil changes, check. Heads cleaned, check. All laundry cleaned and stored check. Suitcases packed, (UGH), check. The list got smaller, we got wearier. On Sunday, with heads now shut down, provisions all gone and nowhere to sit or sleep, we checked in at the Holiday Inn Express where we would stay for the week while we did final work. And then it was Monday morning.

Haul Out

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After a fitful night, we go, both nervous. It’s my first time. I love our boat. It’s unnatural to take a boat out of water, yes?  The space is irregular where we’ll be hauled, narrow and jagged. We carefully placed fenders around the boat. Michael marked where the straps should be placed for hauling under the hull’s lifting points.

We motored over at 0740, hoping to get there just at the right moment for the haul out scheduled for 0800. This is a very shallow area and we did not have much room for circling. As we approached, the travel lift was not in place and there was no one there yet to catch the lines. We radioed Gabriel at Marina Guaymas for assistance. There was some back and forth and around 0830, the men walked down to the dock. I handed off the bow lines on starboard and then stern line on port. Footloose was secure, but where was the travel lift? An hour later, Gabriel called to tell us there was a flat tire on the lift. It would be a couple hours. ok.  We waited. We walked to OXXO for some ice and snacks. At 1000, Michael wandered out to the travel lift to check on progress on the tire. Two men were wrestling with the huge tires and were almost ready to remount the wheel. Michael returned to the boat. We waited. It’s hot. At 1300, Michael goes back to investigate and learned that no further progress had been made. He checked with the office about leaving the boat and returning the next morning. The owner of the travel lift agreed to haul the boat at 0900. We walked over to Gabriel’s where the boat will be stored and informed their office that the boat haul was delayed until the next day. Jesús picked us up and we went on our way shopping for filters and pausing for ice cream.  At 1500, Gabriel called Michael, “where are you, your boat is in the sling ready to haul.”  Michael – “What???!”  The operation stopped. 

The next morning, Jesús picked us up at 0730 to drive us back to the yard. This time the travel lift was in place and before I’d made a cup of coffee, it was show time. I climbed off the boat, turned my head away from the lift and Michael caught me making the sign of the cross. I bravely turned back to watch and took some photos. Footloose rose and they pulled her out. The travel lift proceeded up this rough roadway to the storage yard with Footloose swaying in the sling. yikes. (Deep Breathing required) 

They parked Footloose and put her down on blocks.  Relief, temporarily. Unfortunately, when we got back aboard and walked to the bow, we were horrified to find hydraulic oil spots all over the place. It apparently had leaked from the lift overnight. If only they had waited for us, we could have averted the mess by covering it properly. Instead, our custom kayak cover is stained. And our deck was a mess. We spent an additional day cleaning as best we could, but still no bueno. Captain very unhappy.

All Shall Be Well

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We cleaned up today, secured the dinghy on deck, and said our farewell to Footloose. We’ve stored her the best we know how and pray that she’ll be safe for the summer. We’ve met Alejandro, who will likely do some sanding work for the bottom paint job. Everyone in the yard, workers and boaters alike are cheerful about it all, which is reassuring — sort of. Workers are confident in their work and of the safety of the yard. Boaters love to meet you and share their hurricane or other boat yard horror with a chuckle. No problema!  What if a hurricane hits? It happens. A guy we met in the yard told us how his boat was hit by a falling wall – without a hurricane.  Never mind.

Next

We’re leaving soon, catching a flight to Albuquerque on Wednesday. What an amazing first cruising season from California to Mexico. We are excited to see family and friends this summer and looking ahead to next season, what will it bring?  It will begin with putting the boat back together and likely cleaning off all the red dust. But then, Footloose will splash and we’ll be off — Mazatlán, Puerta Vallarta, Banderas Bay, La Cruz, Zihuatanejo, making our way to Panama maybe. All to be determined. Plans and crew are flexible.

We’re tired after the haul out. I’m reminded that it’s best to never make decisions about cruising after a rough passage or grueling boat work. Be mindful that there are far more sunsets than there are fouled props; many more friends than boat yards! 

2016-17 Cruising Season

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North from Puerto Escondido

Ben, Mike, Donna, Rosie, Michael & Lisa

Ben, Mike, Donna, Rosie, Michael & Lisa

After Bahía Salinas, we spent about 2 weeks in Puerto Escondido. It’s amazing how time flies even when you are standing still. During that time we rented a car for provisioning and took a trip to San Javier to visit an old mission. We did a few minor repairs that had accumulated.

We spent a couple of nights on the dock in Puerto Escondido preparing the boat for our friends (old neighbors) visiting from Alameda. The boat had not seen a fresh water hose in almost 2 months, but it’s amazing how much cleaner the boat stays when it is not in a Marina close to the dirt of a city. Car exhaust, construction dust, brake dust, jet exhaust, and other sources all deposit a tremendous amount of debris into the air which settles onto the boat leaving a brown film within just a few days. But after months on the ocean or at anchor, there was very little to remove except dried salt.

The Other Woman

As we were scrubbing the boat, a power boat pulled in behind us. They were talking about one of their four engines not revving fully. This is terrible thing for a boat with only 1400 horse power. Yes, the four motors were custom painted Yamaha 350’s. I casually sauntered down the dock to listen in. They narrowed the problem to a leaking fuel tank valve that was letting air into the fuel line.

It was time for a test drive, they offered -“Hey come on aboard and check it out.”  (Me) “Hey honey, I’ll be back. I have to go for a ride on The Other Woman.”  We leave the dock idling; the boat has six airline style seats with headrests that are kind of narrow between the arm rests. We are six aboard including the owner’s taxi driver who has been on standby all afternoon to run parts etc. We idle through the anchorage taking pictures on the cab driver’s cell phone that make it look like he’s driving the beast. He knows nothing of boats and we explain the purpose of the throttle levers.

The engines are running smoothly. I am amazed by how quiet these engines are considering their size. The owner throttles ahead. We are flying.  A 3-4 foot swell is running in the channel and we are taking these almost on the beam. The boat seemed to just power through with a gentle up and down motion… Ok, not that gentle, but much less than you would think.  The guy sitting next to me is familiar with the boat and I ask him how fast we are going…48 miles (not knots) per hour. I comment on the smoothness. He says the boat is 42 feet. I would have guessed 35. Weighs 32,000 pounds, carries 800 gallons of fuel. (probably not enough).  I would guess this boat burns 60 gallons an hour easy. We cross the roughly 7 mile channel in a few minutes and idle in a small bay on Isla Carmen. They snap a few pictures and then roar back across at 55 mph because the swell is now hitting us a little on the stern quarter.

It’s been a busy day for The Other Woman. They left San Carlos on the other side of the Sea of Cortez at 7 am, crossed to San Juanico 112 miles away, had lunch, and got to Puerto Escondido by 1:00 PM after another 44 miles.  And I didn’t have my camera along for the ride.

Mission San Javier

On a whim, we decided to visit the mission in the hills above Loreto.  A 45-minute drive up a twisty mountain road led us to the town of San Javier.  A cart full of flowers welcomed us to the mission which dates from 1699.

Our friends arrived April One for their 10 day vacation, and they accompanied us on our trip north to Bahía Concepción.

Isla Coronados April 2-3

Rosie driving to Isla Coronados

Rosie driving to Isla Coronados

We spent two nights here enjoying this little bay. The second day we anchored off of Loreto for six hours because it became obvious that we had seriously under provisioned tequila, limes, white wine, and milk. The beautiful white sand beach gave our guests their first snorkeling experience in the Sea of Cortez.

 

Caleta San Juanico April 3-6

San Juanico (22 of 25)It was pretty rough and windy at San Juanico, so we stayed there a couple of nights anchored under the protection of the point. Lots of boats were there to wait out the stronger winds. At sundown on the second night, a single hander came in and anchored. Testing all of the worst places and clearing a mountain of weeds each of the six times he had to reset his anchor.  In situations like this I find myself dying to give advice,but refrain knowing that each person is the master of their own ship and unless they ask your advice, you need to hold back. and so, I watch as they anchor, but don’t say a word – despite the fact that when their boat goes adrift at 2:00 in the morning, it may be drifting straight toward our boat!

Playa Santispac, Bahía Concepción April 7-8

visit (5 of 6)A calendar is the worst enemy of cruising, so rather than risk being pinned down by high winds, we pushed on to Playa Santispac so that our guests could be assured of not missing their flight home. This was to be a long passage with our friends, 44 nautical miles, 7-8 hours.

Along the way, I started to notice a smeariness in the vision of my right eye. After fiddling about a bit, I figured I was having a vitreous detachment (although most people my age have already done that) or a retina detachment which is less common, but much more significant.  I felt I had a small hemorrhage in my eye because I could see red blood cells (they look like tiny life savers) and a red color shift.  As a retired optometrist, I have advised my patients many times on this condition. My words to them “don’t finish your Mexican vacation, find someone locally to look in your eye and tell you what is going on, then decide what to do”.  So, now it’s my turn. We meet Carlos, one of the proprietors of Ana’s Restaurant, which has been at Playa Santispac for 38 years. He is all about helping. He drives me to nearby Mulegé, where my internet and cell phone works. I call my international health insurer and they give me a doctor in Tijuana, a 20-hour drive away. He takes me to the local clinic where a couple of harried doctors are caring for a large waiting room of patients. One of them steps away and offers the information that there is a good ophthalmologist in Ciudad Constitución about 3 hours distant. No phone number. We go back to Santispac, no better off. Carlos is a good, but aggressive driver.

Pina Coladas & Margaritas

Pina Coladas & Margaritas

Later that evening we are off to Ana’s for dinner.  We are the last ones dining and Carlos sits with us telling us how he learned to speak English as a runaway 14-year old in Portland, Oregon. While he was in Oregon both his parents died. I think Rosie is a little taken aback by the story.  She may never have met anyone like that. Carlos offers to drive me to Ciudad Constitución.

My symptoms have been stable for 3 days with good vision when I’m not trying to look through the huge floater. We decide that the risk of Carlos’ driving may exceed the risk of retina detachment, and if things start to change we could sail to Guaymas in a day which is a large city with resources.

Decision made, I try to put the eye out of my mind. Playa Santispac is getting crowded in preparation for Easter Week, which is a big deal in Mexico. The beaches are filling in with tents. Jet skis and dirt bikes make their presence widely known; a traveling Carnival begins to set up miles from nowhere. Trying to escape the noise we move a few miles south to:

Playa Coyote April 8-9

We have been told there are Whale Sharks here. Whale sharks are huge animals up to 35 feet in length weighing up to 35 tons. They eat krill, plankton and small fish by filtering and grinding huge gulps of water through their 2mm teeth. Their grayish body is covered with a pattern of large white dots. Bring the dingy alongside (or SUP board), roll in with your snorkel gear on and provided you can kick fast enough, you are swimming with sharks. Very cool, and a highlight of this trip I’m sure.

Whale Shark Mission

Whale Shark Mission

On one of his trips to the beach, Mike meets Anita Stalter, whose husband brought her here 38 years ago. Now a widow, she spends half her year at playa Coyote and half in Santa Fe New Mexico. Her late husband started the NOLS school, which is an off shoot of the outward bound program. They have a beautiful campus right next door.

Snorkeling, Playa Coyote

Snorkeling, Playa Coyote

Later that day we snorkeled along the north side of the bay, enjoying myriads of small fishes who seem as curious about you as you are about them. Best snorkeling to date. We ate out at Pollo Bertha, which is out of chicken “pollo”, rice, and doesn’t make margaritas.

Our guests are off at 8 am to catch the 9 o’clock bus to Loreto where they will fly home.  Ben and Mike are feeling a little queezed out and so am I. Turns out Bertha did have a bug for the boys in the group as all of us were sick. At 11:00 am the wind is kicking up and a weird swell is coming.  Lisa & I return to Santispac with much better wave protection and I spend 20 of the next 24 hours asleep. The wind is in the high teens gusting to 25, while I sleep with the anchor alarm on. The eye is unchanged.

Semana Santa (Holy Week), April 9-15

Playa Santispac

Playa Santispac

While Michael slept recovering from likely food poisoning, Playa Santispac and all the neighboring anchorages filled in with people celebrating Semana Santa. Apparently, a great family tradition to camp out in Bahía Concepción and other places I’m sure. We walked along the beach to check out the happenings. Everyone was in great spirits. We chatted with a man, recently retired from a government job in Tijuana, enjoying the celebration here for the first time. We watched anxiously as boys, ages 7-10, raced their motor dirt bikes on the road in back of the tents. The Jet Skis were towing squealing kids on their inflatables. The air was filled with the smell of campfires and barbecued meat. Family dining tents alive with laughter, sharing meals and drinking. Good times, but noisy for us. We visited Isla El Requesón (also lined with tents) & then left to return to  Playa Coyote, hoping to see the Whale Sharks again.

The Lore of the Lucky Box

As we started to turn into Coyote Anchorage, we noticed a kayak towing a crowded inflatable raft way off shore. The wind had picked up and the afternoon sea was choppy. Was the kayak in trouble?  It looked to be stationary up against the waves. Michael turned the boat and we went to offer help. At first, the man in the kayak said no help was required, “we are OK”. Two women and their young children (without life jackets) in the vinyl raft (with 3 inches of water)  – were also at first dismissive. But, as we talked with the waves pounding, the kayaker agreed that it would be easier without towing the others. We brought the women & children on board. They sat quietly. They were not very concerned, though they admitted it was taking very long to return and they were tired. The wind had caught them by surprise. It didn’t look that far to the island and back and the snorkeling was supposed to be great. They were grateful for the ride. The kayaker insisted on staying with his boat, still towing the now empty vinyl raft. We got to the Playa Burro Anchorage where they were camped and  watched and waited for the man to return. He was not making much headway. Michael dinghied to him and towed both boats back to Footloose. Michael then offered to dinghy the women & children to shore. Two of the women said they would swim. One took off, but the other one clearly did not know how to swim. Realizing this, she tried to board the kayak with her boyfriend, but capsized it in the effort. Michael then towed the kayak and the whole bunch to shore, righted the kayak emptying the water and all was well. I read recently in “Harmony on the High Seas” about the lore of the lucky box, which states an imaginary treasure chest is implanted in the heart of each boat during its construction. When we go out to sea, we have the opportunity to fill this box with Lady Luck’s intangible treasures of fortune or good karma. We felt that we added to this box on this day. We do marvel at the helpfulness of the boating community and we’re glad to contribute.

Punta Chivato, April 15-16

Chiavato (6 of 10)

Chiavato (3 of 10)We enjoyed 2 nights anchored here. We walked the infamous “Shell Beach”, and found many shells for our collection. There is an active community living here, with some 200 homes we’re told, plus an aircraft landing strip. In the evening, a helicopter repeatedly buzzed over the anchorage, treating his friends to a thrill ride. We watched a motor boat cruising fast to get a close up of some dolphins. We try not to judge, but seriously people. We met a couple guys walking their dogs on the beach, both long-time residents. One reported, “I started coming here in 86’, first there were tents, then RVs, then houses.”

Ahmeek & Attitude

Ahmeek & Attitude

We anchored next to two boats, Ahmeek and Attitude.  We met Dennis and Sherie on Ahmeek for Sundowners when we found out the restaurant was closed for Easter. We remembered meeting the couple from Attitude when we first arrived in La Paz. They are long-time cruisers and we recall having enjoyed listening to their experiences. They stopped by in their dinghy to say hi and to share some news. They bought a home at Punta Chivato! They were swallowing the anchor. Attitude was soon for sale. We could tell that it was a sudden decision, and while Neil seemed excited, Kathy wasn’t yet sure. It’s hard to say goodbye to a boat and to a lifestyle. They were off to share Easter dinner with some new friends in the community. We wished them well. We are still on the other side of this cruising journey, still just getting started. We do wonder when our moment will come, when we’ll choose to return to land and settle somewhere. Not today, tomorrow- Santa Rosalia!

Santa Rosalia, April 17-24

We docked here yesterday afternoon. It’s been awhile since we’ve stayed at a Marina. We slept well last night without any anchor angst.  We will be here a week. We will be provisioning, doing laundry, fixing and cleaning. We’ll also get out to enjoy this working-mining town. We walked this morning and found breakfast at Tercos and bought some eggs, limons, cheese, and hot sauce at the small mercado. Michael found fresh baguettes at the bakery. We’ll venture to Ley’s later this week to truly stock up. We may try a Chinese restaurant tonight, first Chinese we’ve tasted in Mexico, reported to be fresh & good. We were hoping to find an Eye Doctor for Michael here, but we checked at the hospital and there is not one in town. His eye is stable, still it’s worrisome not knowing. The things we once took for granted in California -like abundant fresh produce and abundant choices of medical care – are not as accessible here.  It’s all a part of the adventure.

Three Wishes

March 3, 2017

We left Puerto Escondido this morning to travel 24 NM to Bahia Agua Verde. We have three wishes for every trip (other than safety, of course): 1) sailing with 15 knots on the beam, 2) seeing a whale, and 3) catching a fish. Our average is quite poor to date, but we remain steadfast with our hopes. We motor off under still, glassy, calm seas. It’s misty, a few dark clouds overhead, sun peaking through, not a breath of wind.

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No Sailing Today

Michael cheerfully, whistling, puts out “Rich’s lucky rod” with a cedar plug. On the other rod, he attaches the new Zuker lure (a red-feathered fish magnet they say) to the line.

Attaching the Zuker

Attaching the Zuker

I strap the Fujinon, stabilizing binoculars around my neck, put my camera in my pocket and head for the bow seat for whale watch. The sea remains glassed off with sun sparkling. I stare off into it, mesmerized. Any disturbance to the sea surface stimulates a heightened awareness. We spot fins sticking up out of the water and determine these to be Manta Rays basking on the surface. Sea Lions are warming up, floating on the surface, fins in the air.

Basking

Michael turns on the fish finder. He sees that the fish are all cruising along the bottom, miles below the Zuker. After 10 miles of this, he pulls in the line and attaches a different lure specific to attracting deeper lying fish. I walk around the boat, staring off in every direction. Suddenly, Michael exclaims – I see something- there! Where? There, where I’m pointing. Oh my, I see the spout. I look through the binoculars to see the magnificent whale swimming. His dark mass breaks through the surface to breathe several times– and then with a final wave of his tail, he disappears into the great depths. After that first sighting, many more followed. We saw about 10 whales this day, each one thrilling. We didn’t sail, and we won’t be having fish for dinner, but we are excited as we anchor at Agua Verde. A wish was granted!

A Friend Visits, a Great Start to the New Year

Espiritu Santo

Espiritu Santo

Our friend Deirdre visited us from the Bay Area to help break in the New Year. We had a great time traveling to a few anchorages in nearby Isla Espíritu Santo and Partida and also enjoyed a bus ride to the sweet town Todos Santos. We can’t wait to venture further north in a couple weeks!

First Stop: Balandra

Bahía San Gabriel – Playa Bonanza

Puerto Ballena – Caleta Partida – Return to La Paz

Todos Santos

La Paz

We spent the holidays in La Paz, Thanksgiving – Christmas, all docked at Marina Cortez. We are getting ready to cast off again to sail north and explore the Sea of Cortez. Before we go, we’d like to share our delight in the sights, sounds, and people of La Paz.

La Paz means literally the City of Peace and how aptly named it is. Michael & I have relaxed into an easy groove here. 

Cruiser Community

Marina Cortez, is one of several marinas in La Paz. There is an active cruiser community here, with many full time live aboards at the various marinas. We sometimes listen to the cruiser’s net, broadcast on VHF 22A with volunteer hosts. The net is an open forum, where all cruisers can call in with announcements & questions. We listen to hear about local events and services, to welcome the arrival of new boats and to hear of those departing usually to venture to local islands or to cross to the mainland. We get weather forecasts and even mail call from the marinas, with each marina reporting on which cruiser has mail waiting for them. You can trade parts for “coconuts” or get the word on the looming coromuel or dart game. Club Cruceros is a cruiser organization, which holds daily coffee hour at the Club House at Marina de La Paz. The Club House is a hub where members can check out DVDs and books from the library,  or join a yoga session or one of the other ongoing classes offered.  Michael is taking the Celestial Navigation class. Can’t wait to practice what he has learned when we get back to the Sea!  Cruisers are integrated into the La Paz community, and we’re a part of that.

Música

Music can be heard everywhere often with competing harmonies and rhythms. We like the Románticos the best. We listen to the beautiful voices crooning of “corazon” & “amor” and “dolor” and we get the meaning. One night we were lured to the neighbor’s boat, so attracted by the songs we couldn’t help but listen to. Michael inquired to the name of the album and so it was that we learned about the group “Mana” as well as the taste of various tequilas. In contrast to the Spanish love songs, we hear way too much 80’s music blasted here. From restaurants, boats, everywhere— there’s the sound of familiar American songs from an era long ago. Larga Vida  “Journey” aqui!  When the sun goes down, the volume gets louder and the beat faster. People dance until the middle of the night way past boat midnight (9:00 pm). I have trouble sleeping some nights even with earplugs. Still the spirit is to be admired.

The People

As noted, the Mexican people here can celebrate into the wee hours of the morning any day of the week mind you. We often wonder how they can get up for work, but work they do. We’ve witnessed a restaurant being built in weeks right here at the Marina, with workers grinding tile by moonlight. The other night when we returned late from a Christmas concert, we were surprised to spot a diver in the water cleaning the bottom of a water taxi at midnight. The people are friendly & helpful. Even the drivers stop for pedestrians at crosswalks on the Malecon, a courtesy forgotten back home where speed and autos rule the road. but I digress… It’s Christmas!

Feliz Navidad

Like home, the Christmas decorations went up promptly after Thanksgiving along with the Christmas street markets with stalls of people selling stuff, like a huge flea market, up and down blocks surrounding or leading to the Cathedral. The Club Cruceros supports many charities around Christmas & throughout the year. They raffled a quilt made by the “cruiser quilter’s club”, with ticket proceeds benefiting a shelter for battered women & children. They collect supplies for weekly visits to the senior center and provide Christmas gift bags for children. I signed up to shop for one of these gift bags for a 5 year old niña, Lea Michelle. Michael & I had fun shopping in local stores to collect a few things for the gift. We found crayolas and a “Frozen”coloring book; a Princess and the Lion book, a stuffed dog/puppet, a Whale T-shirt, barrettes with ribbons, and some sweets. We shopped, while practicing our Spanish with the help of google translate and some very helpful shopkeepers who were eager to practice their English with us too. We put up our lights on December 15. Footloose lights up the marina I’d say! We joined mass at Catedral Nuestro Senora de La Paz (Our Lady of Peace) and visited another beautiful church Santuario Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe).  We celebrated Christmas dinner with our friends Tod and Donna of Single D and George and Carol of Circadian. Our friends brought special dishes to share, including Tod’s amazing Pistachio soup and Carol’s smoked trout dip.  The prime rib roast just barely fit in our boat oven, but Michael cooked it to perfection! 

The Malecon and Neighboring Streets

Almost every day begins and ends with a walk on the Malecon. The Malecon is a promenade along the waterfront stretching for miles between Marina de la Paz and Marina Costa Baja. People stroll, jog, skate, and bike along the path. We appreciate the sculptures along the path with one of our favorites being  El Viejo y el Mar.

 The surrounding streets are all named to commemorate the date of some revolution or of a hero who fought for one. The history is in the pavement. You get your exercise walking up the streets, paved with uneven stairs & cracked concrete. Balance and a careful eye are required. Along the way, you find a quaint restaurant or a book store or gallery intermixed with homes or construction projects in various stages of incompletion. I search out the markets and there are many. We go to the large markets (Mega or Chedurai) to stock up on provisions, but enjoy the smaller markets for our weekly meal plan. Two of my favorites are Mercado Bravo and the Farmers Market open Tuesday & Saturday. We can build a meal around one of the fresh ingredients found at the market. Last night I made a salad fresh with local lettuces, green beans, and tomatoes; I then sautéed “opu squash” simply with olive oil, garlic, salt & pepper, per the market farmer’s suggestion, and served atop some rice with cilantro & lime. Delicioso!  I can’t wait to experiment with mole sauce!

A walk with Michael almost always ends with a treat. A favorite lunch spot discovered on one of our Malecon strolls is Sabor Malta.  We love the Molcajete, served hot in a stone bowl called a “molcajete” thus the name, along with an ice cold Bohemia Clara in a frosty mug.  Coffee Ice cream at Le Fuente is not to be missed. Look for the polka-dotted tree. We even enjoyed lox & bagels at Bagel Shop y La Galería walking home from the cathedral. Never tasted smoked marlin before!  Dinner at Il Rustico  on the patio on a warm night was lovely with fresh Margherita pizza, thin crust baked in the pizza oven, Insalata Ale, Penne all’arrabiata and a rich red wine from the prominent and growing Guadalupe wine region.

We found Trocodero by accident walking home late after a Christmas concert. A father & son team run this long standing establishment. We sat down and quickly became acquainted with the table of cruisers next to us. They recommended we try the duck taco appetizers, which were amazing drizzled with a tart vinegary dressing. The cruisers turned out to be Laird & Glenda of Winterlude. They first came to La Paz years ago and have since cruised further through Central and South America, the South Pacific and even as far as New Zealand. They recently returned to La Paz where they signed a two-year lease at Costa Baja, because as Laird put it, “there’s something very special about this place, La Paz and the Sea of Cortez, that pulls you back and makes you want for more. In many ways, there’s no place we’ve been that’s any better.”

Beautiful Heron Overlooking the Marina

Beautiful Heron Overlooking the Marina

Then There Were Two

The Baja HaHa ended in Cabo San Lucas. When our terrific crew departed and the haha fleet began to disperse, it dawned on us – here we are, the two of us, alone on Footloose. With no more planned itineraries, which way do we go? This is what we dreamed of, the two of us on our floating home, free to choose our way. We decided to travel along the “East Cape” to La Paz. First to San Jose Del Cabo for a quieter Cabo experience. We were tired and this provided a few days of rest. We walked around the sleepy marina and quaint town, we swam at the hotel infinity pool, we met with other Baja HaHa cruisers. So, we’re not quite alone yet really.

 

Underway to Bahia Los Frailes, water on deck!

Underway to Bahia Los Frailes, water on deck!

Michael & I are obsessed with the weather and so it turns out are other cruisers. We think about it all the time. We talk about it a lot. We study it plenty. We compare strategies and models. We use PredictWind with uneasy confidence. But eventually you just have to decide when to go. We are warned that the East Cape is tricky and the wind and currents can be rough traveling north. Michael & I wait an extra day for what looks to be a better weather window to sail to the Bahia Los Frailes anchorage with moderate winds, predicted to average 10-15 knots. We leave the dock at 0930am under calm seas and little wind. We hear Serafina, sailing ahead of us, call cheerfully on the VHF, “beautiful sailing conditions out here”. It is light wind and we are motoring. I was hoping to sail, but instead I start reading a book. A chapter in, Michael says, “it’s time to start sailing.”

The wind is picking up as we raise the main and unfurl the genoa. Within the hour, I see the apparent wind clock 20, “I think we should reef”. We do and quickly add a second reef. Serafina and Paradisea warn – “it’s very lumpy out here.” And it is — with a strong northerly blowing right on our bow. The waves, 5 feet at 5 seconds, are right on the nose. The spray is over the bow, coating the boat and our skin with salty residue. I’m queazy, but determined not to barf. With a bash like this, your goal is to get it over with as efficiently as possible. Unfortunately with the wind direction, we could not point at our destination. We try tacking to see if the other tack will give us any edge, but after the second tack, we acknowledge that we’re losing ground. We turn the engine on, leave the main up and point the boat directly at the anchorage. The waves are crashing and so is something else down below. Neither one of us cares to venture down for food or head. Serafina and Paradisea opt to turn back to San Jose, sailing downwind with speed and comfort. Footloose and Single D continue on. We’re more than halfway there after all. Michael encourages me with PredictWind promises, “this will ease up by 2.” It never does. Six hours later we cover the remaining 20 miles to Los Frailes, arriving shortly before 6pm, and anchor just as the sun is going down.

 

The anchorage is filled with familiar HaHa boats. We feel welcomed and relieved. I coin the trip a bitchy bash, because she was. We sleep well and awake to a nearly empty anchorage. The fleet had been holed up waiting for a weather window to travel on and now they were all on their way, prompting Michael to get on the radio and ask “Was it something we said?” Single D responds with a laugh. They need to get to La Paz to get some electronics fixed. Rough seas take a toll on boats as well as crew.

Now truly alone in the anchorage, we recuperate and rest for a day. More boats join us that evening, including Paradisea and Serafina, who quickly pull anchor the next morning to head on to La Paz. We opt to stay for another day before heading out again.

The next morning at 0600 am we’re off. We motor sail, a perfectly boring calm trip to a gorgeous anchorage, Ensenada de los Muertos. We sail our Hobie kayak for the first time in Mexican waters. We meet a couple walking the beach who have been cruising in Mexico for 7 years. They are waiting to cross over to Mazatlan, while we are continuing north to La Paz. They tell us about Sonrisanet.org, for “definitive” Sea of Cortez weather news. Another resource to either affirm or confuse our departure decisions. (Sonrisa means “smile” in Spanish.) We wait another day.

The next morning, we tune in to our single side band radio to listen to Geary’s report on Sonrisanet. His report doesn’t match PredictWind. We weigh our options. A new system is coming in. If we don’t leave Thursday, we may be holed up here for another week. We decide to go. We want to land in La Paz on Thanksgiving. Thursday is a beautiful day, including the best stretch of pure sailing we’ve had in a long time through the Canal de San Lorenzo. We turn toward La Paz and dock mid afternoon, leaving time for a siesta before Thanksgiving dinner at the Dock Cafe, Marina de la Paz.

I’m thankful for the wise captain (my love), family and friends back home, our strong boat, new cruising friends, beautiful vistas and safe passages. We plan to stay here for a while, so I’m also grateful to give PredictWind, Windyty, NOAA weather and Sonrisanet a rest — for a few days anyway.

 

Monterey to San Diego, planning & learning along the way

Rounding Cape Conception

Rounding Cape Conception

First Overnight, Building Trust

Leaving Monterey to head south would be our first overnight voyage alone without other crew. We would have a 3-hour watch schedule. We planned to go straight to the Channel Islands or to Santa Barbara, rounding Cape Conception at night, all weather permitting. We monitored Predict Wind Offshore for departure plans. According to the software, the weather and winds all looked benevolent, but still we were a bit uneasy, not yet confident with the predictions matching the reality. We checked NOAA too and monitored weather on the VHF radio. We waited for the best window and committed to the departure. We cleaned, provisioned, organized. There was a quiet anxious edge in the cabin as we both prepared. At last we talked about the anxiety and the tension lifted. Michael was reassured when I admitted that I was nervous too. In fact, he was relieved that I was scared (nice). I told him that some of this requires a good dose of trust and faith.  The boat was ready. We would depart at dawn.

We left the dock at 6 am in the dark fog, bundled in foul weather gear and drinking coffee.  I had the first watch 6:00-9:00 am, with Michael nearby. It will take some time for him to relax. He does need his rest. I assured him that I would alert him of anything I’m unsure of. I also pointed out (with good humor) that I care about the boat and want to live just as much as he does. Relax honey, I got this. During my first watch, he pretended to sleep in the cabin with one eye open. We quickly realized that the wind would not be as expected. Lacking knots and favorable direction, again we had to motor, which changed our timing. We made the best of our passage, motoring through the cold and dense fog.  I slept well during my off time. Michael slept some too, gaining some trust in me on watch. 

Porpoises on our bow

Porpoises on our bow

Michael woke me once for the best of reasons: porpoises dancing under our bow. There were 20 or more, diving and swimming with us. Delightful.  

Learning

Entrance to Port San Luis

Entrance to Port San Luis

Running low on fuel, we stopped at Port San Luis at 6am the following morning.  After fueling, the wind began to pick up and then some! With less than a mile off shore, we decided to turn back and anchor for a night.The Harbormaster recommended we tie up to a mooring ball instead of anchoring. And so we go —and in howling winds, we each take turns trying to drive and slow the boat down, while the other catches the ball with the boat hook. Surely we’ve done this before, but not with this strange type of ball setup, nor in these conditions. Several attempts with no cigar. And so it happened that we broke a rule. We yelled. Cursed even. A broken boat hook was thrown into the water (and recovered). We retreated and did the most sensible thing – anchored.  I felt ashamed for Footloose, our proud boat. I imagined her scolding us, “ excuse me, you are embarrassing me, you promised there would be no yelling. what happened to your normally calm manners?…”  Our calm manners did return and that evening we were treated to an amazing display of whales and a mass of seabirds feasting 1/2 mile offshore. The next day there was a small craft advisory warning with gale force winds predicted. We stayed on the boat, nervously watching for anchor drift. We remained at anchor for not one night, but three, waiting for the wind to calm down for the “Conception rounding”.  We kept our cool, visited Avila beach, did laundry with our on board bucket system, and waited.

Rounding a Great Cape, Point Conception

All Systems GO, we left on September 24 bound for Conception. We got some wind and sailed for a while with the big reacher. We rounded the great cape under sail with daylight to spare, arriving in Southern California with gentle breezes and following seas. We anchored at Cojo Anchorage and toasted a beautiful passage. After a peaceful night, we were off to Santa Barbara. We motored along happily on a beautiful sunny day. Our cold weather foulies replaced by T-shirts and shorts!  We reached Santa Barbara Harbor on a balmy, busy Sunday afternoon. Michael cautiously navigated the channel teeming with boats, kayaks, paddle boarders, birds. It was crazy. He turned Footloose around to make a smooth starboard dock landing. I caught the cleat with the dock line and we parked. We made it!

Shorts and Sails, Santa Barbara Passage

Southern California, The Cruising Life

We made several stops in Southern California. We’re adapting to cruising. There’s a lot of planning and boat work, intermixed with quick bursts of seeing the sights. Our first stop was Santa Barbara, where we enjoyed 4 nights. Beautiful and HOT. We visited State Street, shopped at Lazy Acres market for more provisions, and took in the busy harbor activity. Linda, an old friend of Michael’s visited for fun dinner aboard.

Little Scorpion, Santa Cruz Island

Little Scorpion, Santa Cruz Island

Time for the next destination, Santa Cruz Island. We anchored at Little Scorpion Cove. So glad we made it for one night to the Channel Islands!  We explored this cove by dingy, taking in the birds, caves and the quiet desolate beauty.

Up at 5 am and off to Avalon, Catalina Island. Another overnight and all was calm. We arrived Avalon on another busy Sunday afternoon and tied up to our assigned mooring ball amidst an armada of large boats. In the process, we wrapped a line on our prop and got to meet a local diver, who quickly undid our mishap. (no yelling involved, only check writing.)  After the serenity of Little Scorpion, Avalon was at first sensory overload. Soon, the island’s charm grew on us. The best part was having our friends Celia and Art join us on the boat for a few days. We toured the Island by golf cart, had movie night at the gorgeous Casino theater, and snorkeled off of Descanso Beach. 

As soon as our friends departed, we decided to leave sooner than planned for our next overnight to San Diego.  We left at 5:30pm and arrived San Diego Harbor at 8:00am. We are now anchored in Glorietta Bay with a view of the Coronado Golf Course. There’s another Baja Ha Ha boat alongside. We’ll be busy here in San Diego too, preparing for the arrival of our crew and the start of the Baja Ha Ha Rally, which begins on Halloween!  In our brief cruising life, we’ve covered some 500 miles. It seems like so much longer than two months time.

Tomales Bay

Tomales-12

White Gulch

August 26, 2016

Marshall Beach, Tomales Bay

After a few days at South Beach Harbor, San Francisco, our new friends/crew joined us to help bring the boat to one of our favorite places, Tomales Bay.  Laura & Rich and Julie & Lee will crew for us during the Baja Ha Ha Rally in October. This Tomales trip was to be a warm up cruise. Michael & I had some concerns about having 6 people on board, but as we got underway, the concerns soon evaporated. Unfortunately, the wind was light and on the nose, so we motored all the way, stopping one night in Drake’s Bay in order to time our arrival into Tomales with the high tide. Soon after we anchored at Drake’s, Lee began making the rum punch and the party was on. We all rose the next day slowly and mildly grumpy, prepared to raise anchor and head to the mouth of Tomales Bay by 2:00. Raising the anchor proved challenging, as gigantic seaweed was wrapped around our chain. Valiantly, Lee & Michael cleaned the seaweed away as I raised the anchor and we were free to proceed. The mouth of Tomales Bay can be tricky, but we timed it right and Michael smoothly brought her in with no issues. We anchored at White Gulch and enjoyed one more night together, refraining from the rum punch. Our friends departed the next day to return to their busy lives on land. Michael and I immediately settled in with a long boat nap. Happy to be here!

Flow

Day 4 anchored in Tomales Bay.  What a place. Serene, desolate, foggy, misty, cold for August. Just me, Michael and Footloose. There are teams of kayakers, and small boat fisherman, occasional sailboats in the distance, but for the most part, we are alone. It’s quiet here. I can really hear the birds sing, the fish splash, the power of the pelican flight.  Quite a place to get into the flow of cruising life.

Changes

We endured two days without wifi in White Gulch before moving to Marshall Beach & taking the dinghy to “town” in Marshall. We picked up our general delivery mail and went to the restaurant to eat and plug in. We needed to take care of some business online and had some pending texts & emails anxiously awaiting delivery.  The Wifi, bandwidth challenges will be part of the experience I suppose. I’m learning that I can take a connectivity break once in awhile. I don’t feel the constant urge to be with my phone as I once did. I can leave it behind to go out on my SUP board without a pang.

Answers

When preparing to cruise, common questions from friends were about boredom, loneliness, small space, being scared. I know it’s only been a couple weeks and four days, but I assure you I am not bored!  I won’t bore you with the minutia of daily routines, but here are some insights. There is no schedule, only plans that unfold or delay or surprise. I’m enjoying watching the birds and reading about their migratory routes. I’m trying recipes and planning meals for a couple days out, which is enjoyable when the day is mine. I’m talking with Michael about boat parts (still), philosophy, travel, family, science, life. I’ve taken to my Stand Up Paddle Board for a great workout and some meditative alone time. I’m learning something new all the time. Currently, I’m learning about my VHF radio and writing a communication guide for the boat’s procedure manual. We are taking care of Footloose, which is more like a small city than a boat. Every day we monitor our energy (amps), our water (2 tanks), our holding tanks (sewage), our need for showers (hot water). All the things you take for granted for the most part on land are an intricate part of your daily awareness on water. Today we are abuzz charging all systems, making water, making heat, making amps (Gen-Set).  So, it’s not boring. It’s not scary. It’s not lonely. It’s different here.

Next Stop

Planning is another big part of cruising. Where will you go next, when will you leave, what route will you take? We will be in Tomales Bay for 2 weeks and a bit before beginning our route south. Tomales Bay feels like home in a way. Michael spent many years sailing here. There is the annual Labor Day Regatta hosted by the Santa Rosa Sailing Club. Michael and his friends from the Marconi Cove Yacht Club will race one more time aboard Mark’s boat. There will be the annual “Bachelor Party” at Marshall this weekend, a 25 + year tradition. So, this departure will be bittersweet. It will also begin a new wondrous chapter as we will leave the Golden Gate and head south to Pillar Point, Half Moon Bay, then on towards Point Conception, sometimes referred to as the Cape Horn of the Pacific.

Preparing to Cruise: Priority One, Tiller Time with Friends

IMG_6786We moved aboard Footloose in October 2015, while still working and selling our home. We settled in and began a new countdown to our 2016 summer cruise. Sometime between the house sale and Christmas Eve, it dawned on us that this was really happening. What began as a dream 5 years ago, step by step became a reality. We now had 6 months give or take to get ready. What does that entail? Yes, there are the boat projects, the minutia of decisions on this part or that, washing machine or bucket, etc. Moreover, there is the emotional component, a letting go of familiar life and the good-byes to our family & friends.

For the boat projects, we made a list of things to get done before our departure, 91 items, or so, that expand as you go. While repairs, maintenance, upgrades are important for safety and comfort, we knew that we needed to make time for actually operating the boat. To make it happen, we sent Evites to our network of friends for Tiller Times scheduled bi-monthly, and we were soon booked for dates January-May. With this plan, we would gain experience, while connecting with dear friends and sharing our sailing adventure.

Tillertime_2_14_2016-5I was nervous before the first date. Before the first guest arrived, I sat visualizing our docking maneuver, reviewed sailing tactics with Michael, ensured the provisions were adequate, and prayed for calm winds, and nerves. It took some getting used to paying attention to boat operation, while chatting and watching out for people aboard with or without sailing experience. We were nervous as we acutely felt the responsibility. We carefully checked Predict Wind and monitored the radio and radar, even though we were traveling to known, albeit challenging waters in the SF Bay. With each Tiller Time, we learned something new, our friends had a blast, and we did too.

Buying a Boat: daunting, but fabulous

Let’s see, where do I start to tell this tale of how I came to own a boat. Not just any boat, but a big one. My first would be a 47 foot, 25 foot beam, 71 foot mast catamaran. It began with romance as many good tales do. I met Michael in 2010, several years after I lost my husband, Mike, to cancer. As my grief faded, I began to say yes to life again.

Michael lived in a townhouse with a boat dock, a Cape Dory 30 and a charming cat, Max. Now, I am a 4th generation California girl, love the water, swimming, the mystery and allure of the ocean, but had been sailing less than one hand worth. Not long in (perhaps 2nd date) Michael shared with me his lifelong dream of going cruising. Wow, I never heard of this, didn’t know people did this sort of thing. I cheered him on.  I’m all for dreams and going for it— or at least cheering on others to do so. Not knowing where our relationship would go yet, I still encouraged this dream of his. As our courtship blossomed, the dream of a cruising adventure became mine too, still barely knowing what a halyard did. Next thing I know, I’m taking sailing lessons, with bruises to prove it, in the “slot”; my vacation days revolved around visits to marinas, walking on potential cruising vessels found on Yacht World (yachts are for the rich & famous, no?). I’m intrigued and excited. Sharing this adventure captured me. I am a romantic, but still I had fearful moments of Whoa- I don’t know how to sail, what am I doing? my god, I took my first sailing lesson on a dingy with a sail on Lake Merritt in Oakland. Michael was impressed with my initiative, but I cautioned, “Lake Merritt is not the South Pacific”. But, we all start somewhere, even at 50.

Fast forward – we were in love, engaged to marry, we settled on Catamarans versus Monohulls, we found New Moon after another deal fell through. We flew to Tacoma to meet her and the owners, Dean & Deanna, and were charmed by both. I slept restlessly, before the sea trial. New Moon was big and I’m not. There were so many ropes labeled in French; the brokers, the owners, Michael, all were talking and I was swirling amidst the boat linguistics. Deanna, well meaning, was talking about how to water the batteries and how to flush the toilet and how to manage the big ball fender when docking – and I’m thinking -WHAAAT,  while smiling confidently -“yes, of course.” I’m sure I looked as shell shocked as I felt, as much as I tried to fake it. Still,I knew that I wanted this boat and the adventure and believed that it would work out. I believed in saying yes to this, when perhaps logic would have said, I don’t think so. Soon, my shell shocked gaze was replaced with a knowing grin.  She’s now called Footloose and me too. We are cutting the dock lines on August 1 2016.  Let’s go. 

SuciaLisa2