Tag Archives: Chiapas

Our Tour of Chiapas

Birdwatching from our Porch

After the Tehuantepec, as tame as it was, I was content to rest a bit at Marina Chiapas. It’s a peaceful setting surrounded by mangroves, with few boats going in and out, no obnoxious jet skis or early fishing pangas rocking our boat with their wake. I woke up naturally with the sun here and enjoyed many cups of coffee, watching the birds take flight. Left to my own lazy devices I may have whiled away all my time hibernating on the boat in this fashion before departing for El Salvador. But alas, our energetic traveling friends shook Michael & I out of our stupor reminding us that we would likely never travel this way again. So, we set aside our best-laid budget and packed a suitcase. Touring around the state of Chiapas was indeed– to quote our friend Bob on Paradisea– an OLTE (a Once in a LifeTime Experience).

Meet Our Tour Guides

Miguel and our driver Manuel

To see the sites in this mountainous state, we hired a tour guide who quickly became our friend. Miguel Angel Alvarez Davila operates Tours Discover Chiapas. He and his knowledgable crew took our group (Footloose, Paradisea and Sonamara) on some safe and gorgeous adventures.

Quick Tour to Nearby Chocolate Town and Izapa

We first did a day tour to nearby Chocolate Town and the Izapa Ruins. Chocolate Town is aptly named as it’s the home to generations of chocolate makers. We met Josefina who famously won an international chocolate competition in Italy or France. Quite an honor. She demonstrated her techniques, which she learned from her grandmother and mother. Sadly, her children have other ambitions, but her granddaughter sat watching nearby, so perhaps the tradition will not be lost!

Izapa Ruins are only an hour drive. Miguel and our other guide, Favio, are amateur historians with a great interest in Maya Culture, so their insights were invaluable.

Five-Day Tour to Palenque and San Cristóbal de las Casas

Palenque, Maya Archeological Site

Next, we took a 5-day tour to visit Palenque and San Cristóbal de las Casas. The drive itself was spectacular — winding around the majestic Sierra Madres, mango tree orchards, hillside towns, and more. It was a long drive, about 12 hours to Palenque from the Marina on our first day. We did stop for lunch in Villa Hermosa for fantastic Grilled Chicken at a roadside stop. A feast for 80 pesos. And the rewards for enduring the long drive in a van with 9 people are evident in these photos. We were all taken in by this historic place.

The city of Palenque is home to this major Mayan Archeological Site and National Park. This Maya city state flourished in the 7th Century. Archeologists continue with excavations at this site with only a small percentage of buildings yet uncovered from the surrounding rain forest. goose bumps.

After climbing all those steps we enjoyed dinner and a night’s rest in town. But not before a stop at the Aluxes Wildlife Park.

San Cristóbal de las Casas

Santo Domingo Cathedral, San Cristobal de las Casas

Day three, off to San Cristóbal de las Casas, considered the cultural capital of Chiapas. We arrived just in time for dinner and sleep. The next day was full of walks, museums (including Casa Na Bolom) and exploring this magical hillside city. Many people from around the world have found their home here. It’s got a good blend of folk with exiled hippies mingling with indigenous people, some hipsters, artists and tourists.

And now for the long drive back to our boats on day five, with a stop for a hike and spectacular view of El Chiflon Waterfalls.

Cascadas El Chiflon

El Chiflon features five waterfalls at different levels. Great hike and even a zip line for those so inclined.

Some Takeaways from the Tour

Tour guides are worth it: Before arriving in Chiapas we were warned about robberies along the tourist route. Miguel explained that along the road from San Cristóbal to Palenque, there are some indigenous people that are angry and misguided. On occasion they have thrown up road blocks and robbed some tour buses. With Miguel’s local knowledge he knew to take us on a different route, though longer, Safe. 

Best New Road Snack: Plantain Chips with Valentina’s Hot Sauce

Best posed question and sure way to make a tour guide blush: What are “Auto Hotels‘?- A place to pull in for a secret romantic afternoon.  Basically a garage with a bed and bathroom you can pull in to and no one sees the lady in question…

A popular & plentiful business in these parts: Vulcanizadora – a tire fixing place. Luckily we didn’t blow a tire.

Timely: Seeing segments of the “caravan” underway. Miguel explained that Mexico too, does not want them to enter Illegally; however, once here, the towns (and country) do what they can to help them. We saw medical teams set up at check points. Trucks picking up families with children to drive them for a distance. Food and supplies, shelter,  good will.  Federales are on the look out for MS13 members.

Most Astounding Mystery: Why did the Mayan people abandon this flourishing empire? Since it was re-discovered in 1567,  a huge number of inscriptions and sculptures have been the key to unlocking historical secrets, although opinion is still divided on why Palenque was abandoned. Was it famine? Invasion from a neighboring state? A calendar mix-up?

and lastly, thanks again to our friend, Captain Bob on Paradisea, for a new defining motto, “OLTE” —  never pass one up!

Fair winds everyone-

Lisa and Michael

Waiting in Huatulco, Tehuantepec Looming

Cruise ship barely fits in the Santa Cruz harbor!

We departed Barra De Navidad over a month ago with stops along the way to Huatulco, where we now sit and wait for the elusive weather window to cross the ominous Gulf of Tehuantepec. The Gulf of Tehuantepec is infamous for Force 8 gales of N wind called Tehuantepeckers, or T-peckers for short. We’ve been thinking about this moment for a couple years, so the waiting is killing us. We did arrive here in January, notably the time of year when the wind strengths peak, so waiting should not be a surprise!  Unfortunately, the marina is closed due to a winter storm and silting, so we wait hot and sweaty at anchor. We do take day trips, but mostly are tied down to staying near or on the boat. Still, there must be lessons in this wait time. I am on a 23-day streak of Duo Lingo, learning Spanish. Somehow the “emotions” lesson is so apropo: Enojado (angry), Aburrido (bored), Cansado (tired), Preocupado (worried), Triste (sad), and the highly anticipated – Contento (happy).   Haven’t learned the word for grateful yet, but I will and do have many reasons to use it.  Starting with the buddy boats we are traveling with, Paradisea and Sonamara. Turns out even reviewing weather maps is better shared with others. 

Chicken wings, potato chips, olives and Fried Grasshoppers a specialty of Oaxaca

Today is Day 10 of the wait and the T-pecker effect is making its presence known. Waves are rolling in to  Bahia Chahue, rocking our boats at anchor and I feel un poco enfermo (sick). Michael checks Predictwind and assures me that the waves should subside in another 24 hours more or less. Espero (I wait).  

When you need an attitude adjustment, it’s time to take a breath and reflect on the special moments along the journey. Here’s a snapshot of our travels Barra to Huatulco.

*Recommended:  click on photo to start slide show, hit escape to return to post.

Sights from Underway

 People

Anchorages

Touring Around

The Divers of Acapulco: Quite a history. Generations of divers have been diving here since 1934.  Book to be published later this year telling their story,”Divers of the Pacific”.

Fort Museum, Acapulco: Great historical museum at the old fort.

Acapulco, Around Town

Huatulco Area

The Wait is Over

First Sundown in T Pec, Paradisea

On Day 13 of our wait, a short weather window came to light. Our friends encouraged us to take the plunge. We departed on Friday, January 11 at 1700 to cross the Gulf of Tehuantepec.  It was a calm and beautiful passage. We sailed for only a few hours with sunrise on Saturday, then motored on through Saturday night, arriving Marina Chiapas on Sunday morning. I have such awe and reverence for this great ocean we travel on our small boat.  Agradecido (grateful)!

What was all the fuss?  Smooth sailing (& motoring) to cross the Tehuantepec!